Hyderabad

Woman in a burka

 This past week we did our first excursion outside of Tamil Nadu to Hyderabad. Hyderabad is the capital of Andhra Pradesh, a neighboring state of Tamil Nadu, and it is the fourth most populous city in India (Chennai is the sixth). Hyderabad has an interesting mash of culture mostly because back in the day it was ruled by a Muslim leader. Currently, the Muslim community makes up 40% of the population in Hyderabad while in Chennai Christians & Muslims only make up about 11% of the population. I knew beforehand that Hyderabad had a huge Muslim population but I still experienced a huge culture shock upon arrival into the city. Seeing so many woman in burkas really upset me, I mean it irked me to my core. To me the burka is the definition of oppression and seeing so many woman wearing it was beyond disturbing. I am not hating on Muslims, I try my best to be tolerant of all religions and view points. However, I do not agree with the concept of the burka and will quickly shut down any supporters.

Anyways, I am getting ahead of myself. Now that you have some background, lets take it from the top.

Kristen on the sleeper train

The journey to Hyderabad from Chennai took around 13 hours by train. We took a sleeper train and my god was it an experience. "Beds" were bunked three high with barely any room to move. I think I slept only 1 hour consecutively and the rest was miserable. There was a ton of noise, lights, and rowdy kids. Who the heck brings small kids on a sleeper train?!

The Palace

We arrived in Hyderabad around 6 am and I felt like the living dead. We got to rest at the hotel for an hour and I was out like a light. After getting freshened up and eating breakfast, we headed out to go see some sights. Our first stop was the Salar Jung Museum, one of the most famous museums in the world.  Salar Jung is a noble family whose  members have served as prime minister for five generations. Salar Jung III lived like a King, the entire museum is made up of items that he collected himself from all over the world. It was actually amazing how huge this museum was and to think that this is actually a part of one man's collection of stuff.... so crazy.

Next we went to Chowmahalla Palace, which is a a palace that belonged to the Nizhams (Salar Jung family). This place was crazy beautiful and lavish, it is insane to think that this palace has lasted since 1750.

Inside of the palace

Now

Then

We ate Biryani for lunch... my least favorite dish in India. However, Hyderabad is known for its Biryani and by some miracle I actually liked the stuff. I still do not think I will eat briyani ever again, its better to end with the best.

View of the fort from the bottom

The next day we headed to Golconda Fort, a city of ruins that was once the capital during ancient times. This fort was absolutely breath taking, I felt like I was transported to medieval times as we climbed the steps to the top. Myself, Kristen, and our lovely tour guide spent some time exploring trying to find secret passageways and bats. One of my favorite parts of the fort (besides hiking up) were some of the architectural features. At the bottom of the fort there is a place where you clap your hands and can hear that clap nine times over again. The clap can also be heard at a certain spot at the top of the fort, we were able to hear it! The fort was built this way so the King could be notified if his enemies were coming to invade so he could make his getaway. I think it is pretty amazing that this fort has managed to survive so many years when it seems like buildings all over India are crumbling to the ground. Are we going backwards?

View of the fort from the top

Later we headed to Hyderabad University to meet up with one of Anu's friends who gave us a tour of the art department. Later we had a session on folk art and popular "art" within India. I say "art" because art is not taken very seriously or respected in India. To most Indians "art" consists of different posters that are sold that mostly depict a religious figure, political figures, white babies, or suggestive Indian woman. I kid you not.

Our final day was less than eventful for me. I woke up feeling super nauseous and spent the entire morning throwing up. I experienced a variety of other "stomach issues" and was bed ridden. I spent the day watching tv and nibbling on naan. I guess I couldn't avoid getting sick in India forever, but on an excursion? Come on universe! I missed out on a huge crafts bazaar where I could get my hands on some of the famous Indian folk art. I guess it is better for my wallet this way.

Until next time,
Becca